How to Apply Farrow & Ball Paint

Apply Farrow & Ball paint to a sound, clean and properly prepared surface using suitable tools and full, even coats.

Stir the paint thoroughly before use and continue to stir periodically during application where necessary.

Work systematically, maintain a wet edge and avoid overworking paint that has already begun to dry.

Allow each coat to dry for the time specified for the finish before applying the next coat.

Yes. Correct preparation is essential for adhesion, appearance and long-term performance.

The surface should be sound, clean, dry and free from loose paint, grease, dust and other contamination before painting.

Bare timber, MDF, new plaster, metal and difficult surfaces can each require different preparation and primer systems.

See our Farrow & Ball Paint Preparation guide before starting if you are unsure.

Yes. Farrow & Ball paint should be stirred thoroughly before application.

Pigments and other components can settle during storage, so proper stirring helps ensure the colour and finish remain consistent.

Continue to stir periodically during use where necessary, especially when working from a larger tin over an extended period.

For larger areas, it is often more practical to pour a manageable amount of paint into a clean roller tray, paint kettle or suitable working container.

This makes loading brushes and rollers easier and helps keep the main tin cleaner during use.

Avoid returning contaminated paint, debris or partially dried material to the original tin.

Maintaining a wet edge means applying fresh paint into the edge of an area that is still wet rather than allowing sections to dry before joining them together.

Working this way helps reduce visible lap marks, patchiness and differences in texture or sheen.

Plan the area so you can work continuously and avoid stopping halfway across a wall, door or other prominent surface where possible.

No. Avoid repeatedly working paint once it has begun to set or dry on the surface.

Overworking partially dried paint can disturb the film and leave visible texture, drag marks or an uneven appearance.

Apply the paint evenly, complete the section while it is still workable and then leave it to level and dry.

Yes. Temperature, ventilation, humidity and airflow can all affect how quickly paint dries and how easily it can be worked.

Very warm conditions or strong airflow can cause paint to dry more quickly, reducing the time available to maintain a wet edge.

Cold or damp conditions can slow drying and may affect the performance of the coating.

Follow the environmental limits stated in the current product guidance for the finish you are using.

If several tins of the same colour and finish will be used across one continuous area, mixing or boxing them together can help maintain maximum consistency.

Even where paint is produced to the same colour specification, combining tins before application avoids changing from one tin to another partway across a prominent wall or surface.

Use a clean container large enough to mix the required quantity safely and thoroughly.

Yes. Primer, undercoat or previous coats should be allowed to dry for the specified period before the next coating is applied.

Applying another coat too soon can interfere with film formation, adhesion and the final appearance.

Drying and recoat times vary by product and conditions, so use the timings specified for the Farrow & Ball finish or primer you are applying.

The best results come from combining correct preparation, suitable tools, even application and sufficient drying time.

Avoid trying to achieve full coverage in one heavy coat. Apply the recommended coating system in controlled, even layers and allow each coat to dry properly.

Use the sections below for detailed guidance on brushes and rollers , number of coats and drying and recoat times .

Use the tool that best suits the surface and the finish you are trying to achieve.

Rollers are usually the most efficient choice for larger flat surfaces such as walls and ceilings, while brushes are better suited to edges, corners, detailed areas and much interior woodwork.

Many projects use both: a brush for cutting in and a roller for the main area.

Choose a good-quality roller sleeve appropriate to the surface texture and the finish being applied.

Smooth walls and ceilings generally benefit from a shorter or medium pile roller that can apply an even film without leaving excessive texture.

Rougher or more textured surfaces may require a longer pile so the roller can reach into the surface effectively.

For smooth interior walls, a short to medium pile roller is generally the most practical starting point.

A very long pile can leave more visible texture on a smooth surface, while a sleeve that is too short may not hold enough paint or may require excessive pressure.

Use a good-quality sleeve and avoid pressing too hard when rolling.

Use a good-quality decorating brush that is suitable for the paint and the type of work you are carrying out.

A smaller angled or cutting-in brush is useful around ceilings, corners, skirting and other edges, while a wider brush can be useful on doors, trim and larger woodwork surfaces.

A good brush should load paint evenly and release it smoothly without excessive bristle loss.

Yes. Good-quality synthetic brushes are suitable for many water-based Farrow & Ball finishes.

Synthetic filaments generally retain their shape well in water-based paint and can provide controlled, even application.

The quality and condition of the brush matter just as much as the filament type.

Use the correct roller pile, load it evenly and avoid excessive pressure or repeatedly rolling paint that has begun to dry.

Apply enough paint to create a full, even film rather than trying to stretch a small amount over too large an area.

Finish each section consistently and maintain a wet edge so the roller texture remains uniform across the surface.

Use a good-quality brush, apply the paint evenly and avoid overworking it as it starts to dry.

Load the brush sufficiently so the paint flows from the bristles rather than dragging a nearly dry brush across the surface.

Work in controlled strokes and leave the paint alone once the section has been laid off smoothly.

Brushes are often the simplest choice for detailed interior woodwork, but small rollers can also be useful on larger flat areas.

Doors, cabinet panels and other broad flat surfaces can sometimes be rolled efficiently, while brushes remain useful for edges, mouldings, profiles and final laying off.

The best method depends on the shape of the item and the type of finish you want.

Clean tools according to the instructions for the specific Farrow & Ball product being used.

For water-based finishes, remove as much excess paint as possible first, then wash the tools thoroughly before the paint is allowed to dry in the bristles or roller sleeve.

Reshape brushes after cleaning and allow tools to dry properly before storing them.

The ideal tool can vary depending on the finish, surface and appearance you are trying to achieve.

Wall and ceiling finishes are often applied efficiently by roller on larger areas, while woodwork finishes may be more dependent on careful brushwork or a combination of brush and small roller.

Always check the current product guidance for the specific finish where a particular application method is recommended.

Most projects require the appropriate preparation system followed by two full coats of the chosen Farrow & Ball finish.

The exact coating system depends on the surface and product, so bare timber, new plaster, metal and previously painted surfaces may need different preparation before the finish coats are applied.

Significant colour changes or uneven backgrounds may sometimes need additional preparation or another coat to achieve a fully even result.

Two full topcoats are the normal starting point for most Farrow & Ball finishes.

However, the final number of coats can depend on the substrate, preparation, existing colour and the opacity achieved after the recommended coating system has been followed.

Always follow the current instructions for the specific finish rather than assuming every project will behave identically.

No. One heavy coat is not a substitute for the recommended number of full, even coats.

Applying paint too heavily can affect drying, levelling and the final appearance of the coating.

It is better to apply controlled, even coats and allow the recommended drying time between them.

Primer and undercoat form part of the preparation system and are separate from the finish coats.

Their job is to prepare the substrate, improve adhesion, help create an even foundation and support the performance of the topcoat.

Where a primer or undercoat is required, it should normally be followed by the specified number of finish coats rather than treated as one of them.

A significant colour change can require additional attention to the preparation or undercoat stage.

Using the appropriate Farrow & Ball primer or undercoat in the recommended colour tone can help create a more suitable foundation for the new colour.

Where full opacity has not been achieved after the normal coating system, an additional coat may be needed.

The first finish coat may not always give complete colour depth or opacity, especially over a contrasting or uneven background.

This is one reason the full recommended coating system should be completed before judging the final appearance.

If the surface remains unusually patchy after the specified coats, check whether the preparation, absorption of the substrate or application method may be contributing to the problem.

A third coat may be useful where additional opacity or colour uniformity is still required after the normal coating system.

This can sometimes occur with strong colour changes, uneven backgrounds or surfaces with differing levels of absorption.

Before automatically adding another coat, make sure the previous coat has dried properly and that the underlying surface has been prepared correctly.

Not necessarily. Application instructions vary by product and surface.

Although two finish coats are common, the preparation system and coating requirements for a wall paint can differ from those for woodwork, metal or exterior masonry.

Check the current product guidance for the exact Farrow & Ball finish you are using.

Uneven colour after two coats can be caused by more than simply needing extra paint.

Check for uneven absorption, insufficient preparation, poor coverage of repairs, inconsistent application or areas that were allowed to dry before being joined.

Once any underlying issue has been identified and the coating has dried fully, an additional even coat may help achieve a uniform result.

Wait for the specified recoat time for the particular Farrow & Ball product before applying the next coat.

Recoat times vary between products and can also be affected by temperature, ventilation and humidity.

See the Drying & Recoat Times section for more detail.

Drying time depends on the Farrow & Ball finish being used and the conditions in which it is applied.

A surface can become touch dry before it is ready for another coat, so touch-dry time and recoat time should not be treated as the same thing.

Check the current instructions for your particular Farrow & Ball finish and allow at least the specified recoat time before continuing.

Touch dry means the surface has dried sufficiently to feel dry when lightly touched. Recoat time is the period that should pass before another coat is applied.

Paint can feel dry on the surface while the coating underneath is still drying.

Applying another coat simply because the surface feels dry can therefore be too soon.

Wait at least the specified recoat time for the particular Farrow & Ball finish you are using.

Different products can have different recoat requirements, so there is no single waiting time that should be assumed for every Farrow & Ball paint.

Cool temperatures, high humidity or poor ventilation can also extend the time required in practice.

Applying another coat before the previous one is sufficiently dry can interfere with the developing paint film and the final appearance.

The fresh coat can disturb or soften the coating underneath, making even application more difficult.

Allowing the specified recoat time gives the previous coat time to dry properly before more paint is applied.

Yes. Temperature can significantly affect how quickly paint dries.

Cooler conditions generally slow drying, while unusually warm conditions can cause the surface to dry more quickly and reduce the working time available during application.

Paint within the temperature range specified for the particular product and avoid assuming that the normal drying time will apply in unusually cold or hot conditions.

Yes. High humidity can slow the drying of water-based paint.

Moist air makes it more difficult for water to leave the coating, so drying and recoating may take longer than under normal conditions.

This is particularly important in rooms that naturally experience higher humidity or limited air movement.

Appropriate ventilation can help create suitable drying conditions, particularly for water-based paint.

Gentle air movement can help moisture leave the room, but avoid creating extreme draughts or forcing the surface to dry excessively quickly.

Aim for normal, stable room conditions rather than trying to accelerate drying aggressively.

Avoid using intense local heat simply to force the paint to dry more quickly.

Maintaining a suitable, reasonably stable room temperature is preferable to directing strong heat at the newly painted surface.

Forced or uneven drying can make application and film formation less consistent.

No. Drying and full curing are not the same thing.

A newly painted surface can be dry enough for normal recoating while the paint film continues to develop and harden afterwards.

Treat freshly painted surfaces with care and avoid unnecessary cleaning, abrasion or heavy use while the coating is still developing.

Slow drying can result from environmental conditions, application thickness or the condition of the underlying surface.

Low temperature, high humidity, poor ventilation or applying the paint too heavily can all increase drying time.

If the coating remains unusually soft or tacky, allow additional drying time and check the product instructions and surrounding conditions before applying another coat.

Yes. Stir Farrow & Ball paint thoroughly before application.

Paint can settle while stored, so stirring helps ensure the ingredients are evenly distributed throughout the tin before you begin painting.

Continue to stir periodically during application where necessary, particularly when working from the same tin for an extended period.

Stir until the paint is completely uniform in colour and consistency.

Work through the full depth of the tin rather than stirring only the paint near the surface.

Pay particular attention to material that may have settled at the bottom and make sure it has been fully incorporated before application.

Some settling or separation can occur while paint is stored and does not necessarily mean there is a problem with the paint.

Thorough stirring should return the paint to an even colour and consistency before use.

If the paint cannot be mixed back to a smooth, uniform condition, do not assume that further dilution will correct it.

Do not routinely thin Farrow & Ball paint unless the instructions for the product or application specifically require dilution.

The paint is formulated to be applied according to its product instructions, and unnecessary dilution can change the way it applies and covers.

Where dilution is specified, use only the method and proportion recommended for that particular situation.

Water should only be added to a water-based Farrow & Ball product where the relevant instructions recommend dilution.

Do not add water simply because the paint appears thicker than another paint you have previously used.

Stir the paint thoroughly first and check the instructions for the specific finish before deciding whether dilution is appropriate.

Stir the paint thoroughly before deciding that its consistency needs to be altered.

Different paint finishes can have different consistencies, so thickness alone does not mean the product needs water added.

If the product instructions do not specify dilution for your application, avoid altering the paint simply to make it feel thinner.

Not as a general rule. Whether dilution is required depends on the product and the surface being painted.

Some specific preparation systems may call for a diluted application, but this should not be applied as a general rule to every Farrow & Ball finish or substrate.

Follow the preparation and application instructions for the particular surface and finish you are using.

New plaster requires the preparation system specified for the Farrow & Ball finish being applied rather than an automatic assumption that the topcoat should simply be thinned.

Make sure the plaster is fully dry and follow the current Farrow & Ball preparation guidance for new or unpainted plaster.

See our Farrow & Ball Preparation Guide for more information.

Using a roller does not by itself mean the paint needs to be diluted.

Choose an appropriate roller sleeve, load it properly and apply the paint in full, even coats.

Only dilute the paint if the instructions for the specific product and application require it.

Spray application can have different requirements from brush or roller application, depending on the product and spraying equipment.

Do not use a general dilution ratio across every Farrow & Ball finish or spray system.

Follow the current product guidance and the requirements of the spraying equipment being used.

See the Spraying Farrow & Ball section for more detail.

Use a good-quality brush to apply paint carefully around edges, corners and areas that cannot be reached effectively with the roller.

Apply enough paint to give an even film without creating a heavy ridge around the edge of the wall.

Work in manageable sections so the adjacent area can be rolled while the cut-in paint is still workable.

Cut in the edges of the area you are working on and then roll the adjoining main surface while the paint remains workable.

This helps the brushed and rolled areas blend together rather than forming two completely separate paint films.

On larger rooms, work progressively rather than allowing all of the cut-in areas to dry before beginning to roll.

It is generally better to work in manageable sections rather than cutting in an entire large room and allowing those areas to dry before rolling.

Cutting in and rolling adjoining areas while the paint remains workable can help maintain a more consistent appearance.

Plan the work so you can complete logical sections without repeatedly stopping part-way across a surface.

Maintaining a wet edge means joining each newly painted area to paint that is still wet enough to blend with it.

Work systematically across the surface rather than painting isolated patches and returning to them later.

This helps reduce visible overlaps, lap marks and differences in texture or sheen.

Load the roller evenly and apply the paint systematically in manageable sections using consistent pressure.

Spread the paint sufficiently to create a full, even film without trying to stretch the roller too far once it has begun to run out of paint.

Blend each section into the previous wet area and avoid repeatedly rolling over paint once it has started to set.

Consistency is more important than repeatedly changing your working method across the surface.

Distribute the paint evenly and finish adjoining sections in a consistent manner so the roller texture remains as uniform as possible.

Avoid excessive final passes over areas that have already begun to dry.

Maintain a wet edge, use consistent roller pressure and avoid allowing the edge of one section to dry before joining the next.

Keep enough paint on the roller to maintain an even film and work systematically across the wall.

Going back over partially dried areas can create visible overlaps, so complete each section while the paint remains workable.

Visible differences around the perimeter can occur when the brushed cut-in areas and rolled areas dry with different film thicknesses or textures.

This is sometimes described as picture framing.

Avoid applying the cut-in paint excessively heavily and bring the roller reasonably close to the brushed area so the two application methods blend together as consistently as possible.

Where practical, bring the roller close enough to the cut-in area to help create a consistent texture without touching the adjoining surface.

The aim is to minimise a wide band that has been applied only by brush while still keeping a clean edge around ceilings, trim and corners.

Work while the paint remains workable rather than trying to blend the two areas after they have dried.

Where possible, complete a wall or other natural section in one continuous working period.

Stopping in the middle of a broad surface can allow the edge of the paint to dry before work resumes, increasing the possibility of a visible join.

If you need to stop, try to finish at a natural break such as a corner rather than in the middle of an uninterrupted wall.

Apply the chosen woodwork finish in full, even coats using a good-quality brush, roller or appropriate combination of the two.

Work in manageable sections, spread the paint evenly and avoid repeatedly brushing or rolling areas once the coating has begun to dry.

Pay particular attention to edges, mouldings and corners, where excess paint can accumulate and form runs or heavy ridges.

A brush is useful for detailed profiles, edges and smaller woodwork, while a small roller can be useful on larger flat surfaces.

On doors and broad panels, a combination can work well: the roller distributes paint efficiently across the flat area while a brush deals with edges, mouldings and areas the roller cannot reach.

Whichever method you choose, aim for a consistent texture across the finished surface.

Apply the paint evenly along manageable lengths of skirting, working systematically and watching for excess paint along mouldings and edges.

A good-quality brush gives control around the top edge, corners and detailed profiles. Broader, flatter skirting may also allow the use of a small roller where appropriate.

Avoid repeatedly returning to sections that have already started to dry, as this can disturb the developing finish.

Work methodically across the door so adjoining sections are completed while the paint remains workable.

On panelled doors, it is useful to treat the mouldings, panels, rails and stiles as logical sections rather than painting isolated areas randomly.

On flat doors, use a consistent brush or roller technique across the broad surface and avoid allowing one section to dry before blending into the next.

Use a good-quality brush, load it sufficiently and apply the paint in controlled, even strokes.

Avoid dragging a nearly dry brush repeatedly across the surface or continuing to work the paint once it has begun to set.

Where laying off with a brush is appropriate, use light, consistent finishing strokes rather than repeatedly brushing backwards and forwards.

Apply controlled coats and check edges, corners, mouldings and other areas where paint can collect.

Runs are more likely when too much paint is deposited in one area or when a heavy ridge is left along an edge.

Inspect the section as you complete it and correct excess paint while the coating is still fully workable rather than after it has begun to dry.

Light abrasion between coats may be appropriate where the product instructions or condition of the surface calls for it.

The purpose is to remove small imperfections or create the required surface for the following coat, not to remove the coating you have just applied.

Any sanding dust should be removed thoroughly before another coat is applied, and the current instructions for the particular finish should take priority.

Do not assume that a door is ready for normal contact simply because the paint feels dry to the touch.

Fresh paint continues to harden after initial drying, and closing painted surfaces against frames or seals too soon can mark or damage the developing coating.

Allow the specified drying time and treat newly painted doors carefully while the finish continues to cure.

Allow the paint sufficient time to dry and harden before reinstalling handles, knobs and other hardware.

Tightening fittings against a newly painted surface too soon can mark, compress or lift a coating that has not yet developed its final hardness.

Be particularly careful with frequently handled items such as doors, cupboards and drawers during the early life of the coating.

The application of the finish may be similar, but the preparation underneath can be very different.

Bare timber, previously painted wood, varnished surfaces, MDF and damaged coatings each need to be assessed and prepared correctly before applying the finish coats.

Our Interior Wood & MDF Preparation guide explains the preparation process in more detail.

Many Farrow & Ball finishes can be applied by spray where spray application is included in the current instructions for that particular product.

Spraying can be useful for large areas and surfaces where a consistent finish is wanted, but the paint, equipment and application settings need to be compatible.

Check the current technical guidance for the exact Farrow & Ball finish before choosing spray application.

Spray suitability should be checked for the individual Farrow & Ball finish rather than assumed for the whole range.

Wall paints, woodwork finishes and exterior coatings can have different application requirements, even when they are all water based.

Use the current product instructions to confirm whether spraying is recommended and whether any particular preparation or application requirements apply.

The appropriate equipment depends on the paint, the size and type of project and the spray system being used.

Different systems can atomise paint in different ways and may require different nozzle sizes, pressures or material settings.

Match the equipment to the coating and follow both the Farrow & Ball product guidance and the spray-equipment manufacturer's instructions.

There is no single nozzle size or pressure setting that is correct for every Farrow & Ball finish and spray system.

The correct setup depends on factors including the product, equipment, nozzle or tip design and the required spray pattern.

Use the recommendations for the specific Farrow & Ball product together with the instructions supplied with your spray equipment, and test the setup before beginning the main surface.

Whether dilution is required depends on the Farrow & Ball product and the spray equipment being used.

Do not apply one general dilution ratio to every finish or spray system. Unnecessary or excessive dilution can change the way the paint applies and covers.

Follow the current product instructions and the requirements of the spraying equipment before adding water or otherwise altering the paint.

See Thinning & Stirring for our general guidance on dilution.

Yes. Test the spray pattern and material delivery before applying paint to the main surface.

A test area can help identify an unsuitable spray pattern, excessive material, poor atomisation or other setup problems before they affect the finished project.

Make adjustments according to the equipment instructions and product guidance rather than trying to correct an unsuitable setup while spraying the finished surface.

Keep the spray technique consistent and apply an even coating across the surface without allowing excessive material to build up in individual areas.

Maintain an appropriate distance and orientation to the surface, move the spray equipment consistently and overlap passes as required by the equipment and coating system.

Corners, edges, mouldings and recessed areas need particular care because they can receive more paint than broad flat surfaces.

Spraying does not automatically reduce the coating system specified for the Farrow & Ball product.

Apply the required preparation system and number of finish coats according to the product instructions, using spray application to create controlled and even films.

Do not attempt to replace the specified coating system with one excessively heavy spray coat.

See How Many Coats? for more information.

Spray application creates airborne paint mist, so the work area, ventilation and personal protection need to be appropriate for spray application.

Protect surrounding surfaces from overspray and follow the safety information supplied with both the paint and spraying equipment.

Use suitable personal protective equipment for the work being undertaken and avoid exposing other people to the spray area.

Not necessarily. Spraying, brushing and rolling are different application methods, and the best choice depends on the project.

Spraying can be efficient on suitable larger or detailed surfaces and can produce a very consistent appearance when the equipment is set up correctly.

Brushes and rollers require less specialist equipment and can be more practical for occupied rooms, smaller projects, cutting in and areas where controlling overspray would be difficult.

Choose the method that suits the surface, product, working environment and level of experience.

Patchiness can result from uneven coverage, differences in surface absorption, inconsistent application or judging the finish before the full coating system has been completed.

Repairs, filler and areas of bare substrate can absorb paint differently from the surrounding surface if they have not been prepared correctly.

Allow the coating to dry fully before assessing it. If the underlying surface is sound and correctly prepared, another full, even coat may be required to achieve uniform coverage.

Visible roller marks can be caused by inconsistent pressure, uneven paint loading, unsuitable roller texture or repeatedly working paint as it begins to dry.

Maintain a wet edge, keep the roller adequately loaded and work systematically across the surface using a consistent technique.

Avoid trying to correct individual areas once the surrounding paint has begun to set.

Excessive brush marks can result from overworking the paint, using an unsuitable or poor-quality brush, applying too little paint or continuing to brush as the coating starts to dry.

Load the brush sufficiently, apply controlled strokes and finish the section while the paint remains workable.

Once the paint has been laid off evenly, avoid repeatedly brushing backwards and forwards through the developing film.

Lap marks commonly occur when one area begins to dry before the next section is blended into it.

Work systematically and maintain a wet edge rather than painting isolated sections or stopping halfway across a broad surface.

If possible, complete each wall or other natural section in one continuous working period.

See Cutting In & Rolling for more guidance.

Uneven sheen can be caused by differences in surface absorption, film thickness, application texture or areas being worked at different stages of drying.

Filled or repaired areas can also behave differently from the surrounding surface if they have not been prepared and sealed appropriately.

Allow the paint to dry fully before judging the result. If the preparation is correct, a complete even coat across the whole surface may help restore a consistent appearance.

Runs and drips usually occur when too much paint accumulates in one area or the coating is applied too heavily.

They are particularly easy to miss around edges, corners, mouldings and detailed woodwork where paint can collect.

Apply controlled coats and inspect each section while the paint remains workable so excess material can be corrected before it begins to dry.

Bubbling or blistering can indicate a problem beneath the coating rather than simply an application problem.

Possible causes can include moisture, contamination, poor adhesion or an unsuitable underlying surface or coating.

Do not simply cover persistent blistering with another coat. Allow the area to dry and identify the underlying cause before repairing and repainting it.

Our Farrow & Ball Paint Preparation guide covers the principles of preparing different surfaces before painting.

Peeling or lifting usually points to an adhesion problem that needs to be investigated before more paint is applied.

Potential causes include a weak or contaminated substrate, inadequate preparation, incompatible existing coatings or moisture affecting the surface.

Remove unsound material and establish why the coating has failed before rebuilding the correct preparation and paint system.

Adding another finish coat over loose or poorly adhered paint will not correct the underlying problem.

Poor or uneven coverage can result from an unsuitable background, significant colour change, insufficient paint, excessive spreading or inconsistent application.

Make sure the correct preparation and primer or undercoat system has been used where required, and apply full, even finish coats rather than trying to stretch the paint too far.

Do not judge final opacity solely from the first finish coat. Complete the recommended coating system and assess the surface once it has dried.

See How Many Coats? for more information.

A coating that remains tacky or soft may simply need more drying and curing time, but environmental or application conditions can also contribute.

Low temperatures, high humidity, limited ventilation or an excessively heavy coat can slow the drying process.

Avoid applying another coat until the existing coating has dried sufficiently and check the current product instructions and surrounding conditions.

Remember that paint can be dry enough for recoating before it has reached its final hardness. See Drying & Recoat Times for more detail.